In short, this 10 day trip was packed full of beautiful scenery, kind people, and good food. In the long scheme of things this trip taught me more about myself than any other trip I've ever gone on. It's funny how getting away from all the day to day reality opens your eyes to a whole new perspective on life, on what makes you tick, and what's really necessity rather than an unneeded want.
Ireland in early spring is full of rolling green hills of grass filled with little specks of white sheep as far as the eye can see. Hedges line the divide between land ownership, and daffodils have bloomed here and there and everywhere. The country roads are narrow and empty and winde through the tree lined streets. Every hour or so a distant town appears on the horizon and as you drive closer in to view, the town is filled with small colorful shops and pubs. Every town has a few things in common, adorable buildings, old cathedrals, and small peaceful cemeteries. There's maybe one or two stop lights in the whole town, maybe a gas station that hopefully has a public toilet, and then nothing but country roads once again as you leave. Road signs are in Gaelic and then English and there's just as many signs for castles as there are sheep.
We arrived in Dublin and took a quick drive through the city only to realize that it was really busy and hardly any parking. We luckily found a spot to park so we could walk around and head over to the Old Library at Trinity College. A must see for any book lover! The history within those library shelves is bone chilling. We then drove out to the Cliffs of Moher. Another great must see BUT I will say, we bought a ticket thinking it was necessary and it really isn't to see the cliffs. The ticket is really to walk around inside the museum they have on site and it can easily be missed if you're trying to save a few bucks. I kinda wish we hadn't bought one. The Cliffs of Moher are majestic. No photo can truly do them justice and while I took plenty of them, there's just no comparison to the real deal. After a bit of walking the cliffs we drove up to Galway and stayed the night at The Claregalway Hotel. We would stay here again and again. The in house restaurant was delicious and the people were so kind. But beyond that, we slept like logs. It was quiet, comfortable, and reasonably close to the main city.
In the morning we drove into Galway City to Eyre Square and arrived when the shops were just opening. The small streets were empty but beginning to slowly fill with guided tours and street acts. We popped into Griffin's Bakery and had breakfast upstairs in the restaurant. One of our favorite places we ate at. The eggs benedict was so good and the mini Irish breakfast was the perfect size and packed full of traditional favorites. After a walk around the shops we got back on the road and headed north to Derry. This drive is quite long and its rare to find a toilet so make sure to stop when you see one cause who knows when you'll see another. Or better yet, pack some toilet paper in case you need to just pull over and duck behind a hedge.
The drive was beautiful and along the way you'll see lots of signs for castles, hikes, and picnic areas. We drove past a lot cause we were bound and determined to get north but for sure stop if you have the time.
Along the northern coast of Ireland there's a hand full of things to do. Starting with Dunluce Castle, a beautiful castle ruin right on a cliff. We missed the time to walk around inside but the castle itself is gorgeous to see just from the outside. Stop and walk around, you'll be glad you did. Just a few more miles down the road is Giant's Causeway. This is another attraction in which you DON'T have to buy a ticket for. If you want a headset tour or to see the small stories and museums inside the visitor center...be my guest. We arrived after they closed and just walked down the pathway to the beach. It was gorgeous and honestly because we arrived after hours is was pretty empty, which made for better views and better pictures.
A few more miles down the road is Carrick-a-rede bridge. Definitely buy a ticket to walk the bridge. The views from the island are stunning, but if you're not up to it you'll still enjoy the small hike/walk around the area. In the same area just west of the visitor's center is a location Game of Thrones was filmed. It's basically an empty lot but again, if that tickles your fancy then by all means check it out.
Lastly a few miles from the bridge is the Dark Hegdes. This is a must see. These trees are ginormous and the walk beneath them is so peaceful. I'd say hit this up first thing in the morning to miss the crowds and then make your way through the rest of the spots more north.
We stayed in Belfast on our second night in Ireland and while the hotel was in a great location it was hella noisy. So I'm not going to recommend where to stay. However, we did eat dinner at the most delicious place on the planet. Funny story is we got a taxi to go into downtown because we were told the parking is a bit of an issue. Our taxi driver, Will, was the nicest and funniest taxi driver in basically all of Belfast...we checked. We asked him where he would recommend going and first thing he did was call his wife on the blue tooth speaker. We were dying at their conversation. She giving suggestions and he being surprised and appalled at her replies. In the end he told us about an Italian restaurant called Villa Italia. It's been around for a long time and its family friendly but really all we cared about was that it was good. Well holly hell this place blew my mind. Not only was the portion size bigger than my head but the food was so incredibly good that I HAD to finish my entire bowl of pasta. I was stuffed to the gills and not mad about it one bit. From the hotel we walked toward city centre and then walked the Titanic Trail. It takes you through the streets of the city and then toward the water and ends at the Titanic Museum which was close to where we stayed that night.
The next morning we headed to the Titanic Museum. We were told by multiple people it was a must see and while sure, it was interesting, I wasn't too impressed. I was more impressed with the design of the building and the plaques and information on the grounds. If you're trying to save a buck skip the museum and walk around the grounds. You can also just purchase a ticket to the S.S Nomadic which is the only White Star Line Ship left on Earth that isn't thousands of feet under the sea. It's a much better glimpse inside what the Titanic passengers experienced when boarding the ship and it was by far more interesting than the museum. SOOOORRRRRYYYYY. Best part, it was right next door to the museum.
That night we flew out of Belfast International which was a zoo of an airport and flew into Glasgow, Scotland. Keep in mind when flying from Ireland to Scotland that there's a one hour time difference. We missed that tiny detail. Oops. We stayed in the center of the city at a hotel I'll never step foot in again so sorry no recommendation.
That morning we drove out to Finnich Glen. There aren't great directions on how to get there so here is a pin on Google maps that should do the trick. Full disclosure, it was super muddy and if it weren't for our waterproof hiking boots you'd have to skip it so come prepared! you'll see a small area to park on the left hand side or you can drive up a bit til you reach a fork in the road and you can park along the road there. You'll notice many posted signs about where you CAN'T park so beware. Again, get there early morning and you'll miss the crowds. When we arrived there wasn't a soul insight. It's a bit of a walk till you see the stairs down into the glen but you can't miss them.
Glasgow City is full of old and historical buildings. Don't miss the Glasgow Cathedral. It's beautiful inside and out and when you're done walking around there make sure to head up the hill behind it see the view of the city through the headstones of the cemetery. It's peaceful and really quite astounding how old some of the headstones are.
Walking around the city was really fun. There's a main shopping area that's filled to the brim with department stores and designer wear. Free art museums and cafes. We stopped for a late breakfast/lunch at Singl-end Cafe and Bakery and just loved the atmosphere and the food. Seriously look at all that food!
That night we drove out to Loch Lomond and stayed in an AirBnB for the night. This place was so quaint and quiet. It overlooked the Loch and just outside the back of the cottage was a small creak. Talk about a perfect morning! Our drive up to Ilse of Skye was again, pretty long but also beautiful. Winding roads and waterfalls all along the way. Stop as much as possible as there are picturesque views and hikes for miles. The landscape was quite surprising as I thought we would be in rolling green hills like in Ireland. However, Scotland is rugged and mountainous and rocky. Boulders here and there. Waterfalls drop between ridges from the mountaintops and evergreen tree forests span for miles. Moss covers the rocks with white, green, and grey, and the fences are all faded from rain and mist.
Right before you drive onto Skye is Darnie where Eileen Donan Castle stands on it's own small island. You may recognize it from a movie called Maid of Honor with Patrick Dempsey. Major chick flick, but the castle was used as a residence in the film. Anyway, the castle is amazing and fully restored. Make conversation with the sweet Scottish men in the dining area. They are full of knowledge and love the questions.
Onto Skye you'll pass by Broadford which is a cute little town on the water. We ate lunch at a darling restaurant called Sia. Right next door, however, is the Isle of Skye Candle Company and you must stock up on the yummiest smelling candles made right there in Skye. my favorite was the Frankincense and Myrrh. Keep driving north and you'll run into Portree. It's again, a small town that's buildings are picturesque and the small shops are adorable. We ate one night in town at Dulce and Brose. Yummy food, really cool vibe, and great view of the water.
We stayed two nights on Skye because honestly there's just so much to see and do that the two nights were needed. The AirBnB we stayed at was the best in all the land. It's quite a ways up north in Waternish but the hosts are the sweetest people. More than helpful in tips on where to go and when. They provide breakfast which was so yummy and the view from their place was breathtaking. Even better, depending on when you go you can even catch the northern lights. We sadly missed the northern lights by just days.
Our first day on Skye we made our way around the main Island. First was the Fairy Glen. There are plenty of directions on how to get there but if you're a bit iffy on driving you can always purchase tickets through a sightseeing bus that drives around everywhere on the Island and hits up every last little thing to see when you're there. The glen was even more beautiful than I had imagined. Explore every last little area.
Our second stop was the Quirang. Really easy hike but the sights were more amazing than I could have imagined. We were told later that this was the area that inspired the BFG movie location. On down the road is Kilt Rock and then lunch at Skye Pie. This tiny meat pie shop only makes a certain amount of pies a day and once they're gone they're gone so get there right when they open (noon) to make sure you don't miss out. The meat pies were yummy and the dessert pies were just beyond scrumptious. Across the street from the pie shop is a small dirt road that leads down to the ocean. The whole trail looks like you're trespassing but rest assured there's no such thing in Scotland. You can hop fences, walk trails to no where, and you won't get in trouble for trespassing cause there's no such thing. Anyway, it's quite a steep hike down but the views are worth it.
One your way back around to Waternish you'll pass the Old Man of Storr on your right. It's also a steep hike and if I'm being honest...which I always am, the view is far better from the side of the mountain down on the road. Once you hike up it's just not the same. But by all means, DO THE HIKE!!
On our last day on Skye we hiked the Old Man of Storr and then hiked the Fairy Pools. Keep your eyes peeled for waterfalls along the way and for cute shaggy cows too. After our hikes we drove out to Inverness. Another beautiful drive passing Loch Ness and the Urquhart Castle. Definitely stop to visit the castle and make time for the guided tours. They're full of history and answer so many questions. PLUS, if you plan on visiting more castles throughout your time in Scotland you should look into purchasing the
Explorer Pass which allows you to visit a number of castles and sights in Scotland and saves you tons! We loved having this and really made for some huge savings in the end.
Inverness is beautiful. The town is small and is filled with Cathedrals. Inverness Castle sits at the top of the hill as you drive in and one second you're in the heart of the city and the next you're in the suburbs. We stayed just outside of the city. It was a 15 minute walk to city center from our Bed and Breakfast, so not too far. We loved the Bed and Breakfast we stayed at. It was really cozy and clean and the breakfast was really good and belly filling. I'd stay there again in a heartbeat. Inverness has so much historical sights nearby that it really makes for a perfect central location to stay. Our first night there we ate at a delicious restaurant called Fig and Thistle and the food was spectacular.
Our first day's agenda in Inverness was a drive to Culloden Battlefield. We arrived just in time for a guided tour and the information was so humbling and so sad. The poor Scotts got slaughtered and the history that was a result of that battle loss changed Scotland forever. A few minutes way was the Clava Cairns. Standing stones and ancient burial grounds. Also a lot of really fascinating history. Make sure to walk down the road a bit more for bigger standing stones and old church ruins. We then headed back to Urquhart castle because sadly we missed opening hours the day before. I'm telling you, everything pretty much closes by 6 pm so plan accordingly.
The next morning we explored the city and saw so many cute shops. One of my favorites was Leakey's Bookshop. Floor to ceiling is lines with books and old artwork. Make sure you have the time to spend in there cause I would have stayed all day if I could have. We headed back on the road down towards Stirling Castle, our first real stop for the day. The castle was beautiful and again, the guided tours are a must. We learned all about each stage the castle took throughout history and the huge impact that one castle had on the entire standing of the Country.
Right across the valley is the William Wallace Monument. If you've never seen Braveheart, I recommend watching it before going to Scotland. It's beautifully done and really helped make more sense of the millions of battles that took place between Scotland and England back in the day. But the William Wallace Monument has really breathtaking views once you climb up the 200 some odd stairs. It's a calve workout but worth it. Also they have his actual sword on display there and it's crazy how big it stands. We then drove down to Edinbrugh which is the cutest big city. Giant buildings, colorful shop facades, and...you guessed it, cathedrals a plenty.
Just before arriving in Edinbrugh we stopped by a small town called Culross in Fife. It is probably the tiniest town I've ever visited. The homes are all tiny and have tiny doors. The roads are cobblestone and the doors and buildings range in colors of the rainbow. It's a must see. Walk the streets, stop in the shops, and observe the sweet little townspeople going about their days.
We stayed that night at Murrayfield which was really cozy and beautiful but is a renovated old building. No central air, so it got quite stuffy in our room but they do proved a fan. The in house restaurant was really quite good. We not only ate there for dinner but also breakfast the next morning.
Our first day in Edinbrugh was a stop at Edinbrugh Castle. This was one of my favorites. They have so much to look at and many of the rooms have been redone to look like they would have hundred of years ago. They also have the 1 o'clock cannon which is really cool to see. I'm not sure if there are days when they don't do it so maybe worth looking that up. This castle is really touristy, however, so we skipped the guided tours due to the fact that we couldn't actually hear the guide from the crowds of people.
We walked a bit through the city and had a little bite to eat before we headed down to royal mile to Hollyrood Palace. Now, this was a must see in my opinion because this Palace actually houses the Queen every July. So walking the halls and the gardens was really quite amazing. Everyone gets a headset tour that explains each room and it's purpose and history. To walk from castle to castle is about 20 minutes so I would advise parking down at Hollyrood where the parking is A LOT LESS EXPENSIVE and walking up to the Edinbrugh castle. You'll have lots of shopping opportunities and the small side streets are really beautiful as well. That night we ate at Makars and really enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere and really good food. It's just around the corner from the Royal Mile so it's super easy to find.
We left the next morning out of Edinbrugh and truly I didn't want to leave. Traveling always brings a sense of enlightenment. I found myself sitting in the airport and reminiscing about the lessons learned. I never want to loose the desire to explore. Throughout our hikes I found myself wanting to see what was just beyond that rock or just beyond the next grassy hill. That desire to see more and experience more is something I hope to never let dwindle within me. There is so much to see and think about all we would be able to enjoy if we just went a little farther down the path than we had planned.
My eyes were also opened to the beauty of what can happen when your phone is turned off. I seem to turn to my phone out of boredom. When I'm looking for ways to pass the time, I pick up my phone. There's no doubt that I've missed moments with friends and family because my nose was pointed downward at technology. There were very few times on our travels when we saw anyone on their phones. I mean we were at dinner and Mike and I both looked around us to notice not a single person in the ENTIRE restaurant was on their phone. Everyone was deep into conversation and every single person was happy and relaxed. Now I'm not saying that these people don't have issues or stresses in their lives but from what we noticed, their attention wasn't on the workplace, or the deadline, but it was centered and focused on the people who surrounded them. They visited for hours and laughed and leaned in toward each other. THAT, my friends, is what matters most in life. The people who are closest to you are the people you should be investing in. Now, when I go out to dinner with my girlfriends, family, or anyone really, my phone will not be dining with me. I'll be putting my phone on airplane mode a lot more often so I can watch my children imagine and play. I'll fill my time with adventure or learning instead of wasted scrolling. Maybe as Americans we really need to reevaluate why we are all depressed, miserable, and care only about money and riches.
Maybe the real key to happiness is learning from history, exploring with family, and having a few sheep.
